Eureka! I finally found the source of so many orphaned yarns in my stash, and the ball of Red Heart Boutique Sashay Yarn was almost one of the newest un-loved yarns stuffed into the art-deco side board I use to
hide store my yarn in.
Turns out, that I am constantly falling victim to my own grand ideas before fully vetting them and assumed I would “whip up” a quick scarf for someone as a holiday gift. After all, the photo on the ball band made it look pretty good. But after I got home and began browsing Ravelry projects associated with the yarn, I was overwhelmed with an assortment of scarves that remind me of feather boas. The idea of a feather boa brought up all sorts of campy imagery when I thought about what someone might wear, or not wear, with it and decided I just couldn’t give it as a Christmas present.
In any case, I knew this yarn, with the ball band torn off and partially re-wound wouldn’t be going back to the store, but I had no intention of keeping it in my stash for the rest of eternity, but what to make with it?
The good news was that I did find inspiration in the Rav projects. Way down in the list, past hundreds of scarves, there were 2 other options. First was the Kelp Forest Shawlette, but I don’t think any of my intended targets was a shawl kind of gal. The second option were various forms of toddler tutu, but the only little girl on my list isn’t a toddler, so I went to the drawing board and came up with my own version.
The skirt I came up with is knit in the round, inside out and has a fairly large top opening with a draw string to accommodate a wide variety of sizes. (One size fits most children)
If you would like to knit your own frilly skirt, you’ll need:
- 1 Skein of Bernat Super Value in white (MC) or approximately 200 yards of your favorite Worsted Weight yarn
- 1 Skein of Red Heart Boutique Sashay Yarn (CC), Boogie or approximately 30 yards of your favorite Ruffle Yarn
- US size 8 circular knitting needles, 24″
- 6 stitch markers – 5 that match and 1 unique for the beginning of the round.
- Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
- Standard knitting abbreviations are used.
To begin, with MC, cast on 210 sts and join to work in the round while being careful not to twist your stitches.
Round 1 place unique marker and work *K1, P1* Repeating between the ** to the end of the round.
Round 2 work K1, P1 until the last 6 stitches. Then with the CC, stretch out the first few inches of your ruffle yarn and locate the top and bottom edge (with metallic thread). Ruffle yarn is a mesh and to create a clean look for this project we will need to hide the raw edge.
- Fold about 1/2″ of the end of the mesh over on itself and line up the top, bottom and middle rows of the mesh.
- Insert the right needle into the first loop on the left needle as if to knit.
- Before wrapping your yarn as you would for a knit stitch, pierce both layers of the bottom row of the mesh with your right needle
- Wrap your yarn and then draw through the combined loops and complete the knit stitch as you normally would (5 stitches left to finish the round)
- For the next 5 stitches, you’ll complete the same actions as you did in steps 2-4, except you’ll be working across the folded edge of the mesh, using the strands/holes in the middle portion of the mesh to incorporate the end of the mesh into the knitted stitches.
Round 3 Continuing with CC using just the top 2 threads of the mesh knit all stitches. DO NOT break yarn after finishing the round
Round 4 MC – Knit all stitches
Round 5 MC – *K 35 and PM* 5 times then K 35 (end of round and unique marker already in place)
Round 6 MC – K all sts except SSK after each marker and K2Tog before each marker.
Round 7 CC – Skipping at least 2 holes in the mesh to provide enough slack to reach this round, K all sts using the top 2 threads of the mesh.
Rounds 8-12 MC – K all Sts
Repeat rounds 6-12 until there are 48rounds and 126 stitches on your needles.
Round 49 CC – K all sts using the top 2 threads of the mesh. At the end of the round, leave about 1″ of mesh for finishing and cut CC yarn.
Round 50 Begin by hiding the raw edge of the CC yarn just as outlined in Round 2 except you will be starting with the top edge of the mesh and working to the bottom. Be sure the raw edge is folded under since there won’t be any layers above to hide the raw edge.
Finish the round in K1, P1 ribbing with MC.
Rounds 51-54 MC K1, P1 ribbing
Round 55 MC YO, K2Tog repeating these 2 sts for the entire round
Bind off loosely.
Using the remainder of the CC, a belt or a pretty ribbon, weave in and out of the YO holes left at the top edge of the skirt to form a belt.
As always, I can’t wait to see your projects, so please leave comments, and post pictures. And, don’t forget, You can sell this skirt as a finished object. See Begone, Personal-Use only patterns for details.