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Mullet Cowl – Free Pattern

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Mullet Cowl

I know what you must be thinking – Why is this called a Mullet Cowl?  Well, it’s not that I intended it to have such an unhip name, in fact it didn’t have a name until late in the process.  But, once I started on the colored section, the phrase “business at the front, party at the back,” was firmly stuck in my head.

Originally, I had planned on making an all-white woven cable because I needed one more Christmas present and after knitting 2 of the Very Braidy Cowls a change of scenery was in order.  Then I remembered my mother-in-law saying that my niece loved mis-matched things. This gave me the idea to give the cowl a front and back.  That way she could wear the white at the front, colored at the front or even give it a 1/4 turn and show a bold stripe. Plus, the cowl is sized to be big enough to slip over your head, but not so big that your neck is still exposed to the cold air.

I’m offering this pattern for free because I ‘m writing it from memory since the cowl was still on the needles when I left for Christmas dinner yesterday and it went home with it’s new owner.  I was lucky I had time to grab a couple of [fuzzy] snap shots with my phone. I also used naked (without ball bands) yarn from my stash, so you probably won’t be able to find these exact yarns anywhere, but I’ll make some suggestions below.

mullet-whiteIf you would like to knit your own Mullet Cowl, you’ll need:

  • 1 ball of Lilly Sugar and Cream 100% Cotton  in white (MC) or approximately 120 yards of your favorite Worsted Weight yarn
  • 1 ball of Lilly Sugar and Cream 100% Cotton in Soft Violet (CC1)or approximately 95 yards of a single color Worsted Weight yarn.
  • 1 ball of Lilly Sugar and Cream 100% Cotton in Violet Veil (CC2) or approximately 95 yards of an ombre Worsted Weight yarn that matches the MC and CC1.
  • Scrap yarn for Provisional cast on.
  • US size 10.5 knitting needles or needles that will give a gauge of 4.5 sts per inch in Stockinette stitch.
  • (Optional) Smaller knitting needle for picking up stitches of provisional cast-on – I recommend a circular needle, just in case your point isn’t going the direction you thought it would.
  • Cable Needle – I recommend Clover U-Cable Stitch Holders because they have a small footprint when hanging to the front or back of your work. Simply slip your stitches on to the short leg and knit them off the long.
  • Tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in the ends – I recommend a metal needle. Plastic tends to bend and makes grafting more difficult.
  • Knowledge of Standard knitting abbreviations.
  • Knowledge of provisional Cast on – Video Tutorial
  • Knowledge of Knitted Cables – Video Tutorial.
  • Knowledge of Grafting – Video Tutorial. (Mantra – Knit, off, purl. Purl, off, knit)

mullet-transitionTo begin, using scrap yarn for provisional cast-on, cast on 64 sts.

Rows 1 and 3 P2, K60, P2
All Even numbered/WS Rows K2, P60, K2
Row 5 P2, *8-st LC (slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front, K4 and then K4 from cable needle); rep from *, end K4, P2
Row 7 and 9 P2, K60, P2
Row 11 P2, K4, *8-st RC (slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at back, K4 and then K4 from cable needle); rep from *, end P2

Repeat these 11 rows 4.5 times, ending on a row 6 (WS row after finishing the LC row)

Begin adding CC1 and CC2

mullet-multiFrom this point forward, you will continue repeating the rows as outlined above except each row will be knit by alternating skeins  in a CC1, CC2, MC, CC1, CC2, MC, and so on, fashion.

As you’re knitting with one yarn, the other 2 will be left to hang on either side of your work.  When you finish a row, simply drop the current yarn and pick up the next before continuing the next row.

To keep the edges from getting too tight, leave enough slack in the yarn so that you won’t be pulling the previous row too close.  I also suggest holding the yarn from the completed row to the back of the work, along with left needle, so that the first stitch doesn’t get too big as you begin knitting with the next yarn. Feel free to drop it after a few sts.

Finishing In all, the cowl’s 11 rows are repeated 9 times, except for the final WS row.  That row will be made up by grafting the top and bottom together.

Undo the provisional cast on and slip the live sts from the bottom onto your smaller, needle.  The reason I like the Crochet provisional cast on so much is that I can undo one stitch at a time and slip it onto the needle.

Graft (Kitchener stitch) the top and bottom together using the next yarn in the pattern and then weave in all loose ends.

As always, I can’t wait to see your projects, so please leave comments, and post pictures.  And, don’t forget, You can sell this cowl as a finished object. See Begone, Personal-Use only patterns for details.

Written by Karlie

December 26th, 2012 at 2:36 pm

4 Responses to 'Mullet Cowl – Free Pattern'

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  1. […] Mullet Cowl – Free Pattern at KarlieRobinson.com. […]

  2. […] Cowl Knitting Pattern at KarlieRobinson.com – click on the image or link for knitting pattern… […]

  3. Hi there, I just knit this cowl for my mom and wanted to make a note that really it is a 12 row pattern, not 11 rows…There should be a row 12 of “K2, P60, K2” otherwise you’d be switching to the WS for your cables after each repetition. Thanks for sharing!


    22 Jan 14 at 11:53 AM

  4. Glad you like the pattern, Jorie and thanks for letting us know what you discovered.

    The cowl was hastily knitted and, like I said, I wrote the pattern from memory, so there was bound to be a mistake or two in there somewhere. In fact, I was wondering when someone was going to mention the mistake I made in the cables of the finished object. Can you spot it in the photos?



    22 Jan 14 at 4:58 PM

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