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Frilly Skirt – Free Pattern

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frillyskirt

Eureka! I finally found the source of so many orphaned yarns in my stash, and the ball of Red Heart Boutique Sashay Yarn was almost one of the newest un-loved yarns stuffed into the art-deco side board I use to hide store my yarn in.

Turns out, that I am constantly falling victim to my own grand ideas before fully vetting them and assumed I would “whip up” a quick scarf for someone as a holiday gift.  After all, the photo on the ball band made it look pretty good.  But after I got home and began browsing Ravelry projects associated with the yarn, I was overwhelmed with an assortment of scarves that remind me of feather boas.  The idea of a feather boa brought up all sorts of campy imagery when I thought about what someone might wear, or not wear, with it and decided I just couldn’t give it as a Christmas present.

In any case,  I knew this yarn, with the ball band torn off and partially re-wound wouldn’t be going back to the store, but I had no intention of keeping it in my stash for the rest of eternity, but what to make with it?

The good news was that I did find inspiration in the Rav projects.  Way down in the list, past hundreds of scarves, there were 2 other options.  First was the Kelp Forest Shawlette, but I don’t think any of my intended targets was a shawl kind of gal. The second option were various forms of toddler tutu, but the only little girl on my list isn’t a toddler, so I went to the drawing board and came up with my own version.

The skirt I came up with is knit in the round, inside out and has a fairly large top opening with a draw string to accommodate a wide variety of sizes.  (One size fits most children)

If you would like to knit your own frilly skirt, you’ll need:

  • 1 Skein of Bernat Super Value in white (MC) or approximately 200 yards of your favorite Worsted Weight yarn
  • 1 Skein of Red Heart Boutique Sashay Yarn (CC), Boogie or approximately 30 yards of your favorite Ruffle Yarn
  • US size 8 circular knitting needles, 24″
  • 6 stitch markers – 5 that match and 1 unique for the beginning of the round.
  • Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
  • Standard knitting abbreviations are used.

To begin, with MC, cast on 210 sts and join to work in the round while being careful not to twist your stitches.

Round 1 place unique marker and work *K1, P1* Repeating between the ** to the end of the round.
Round 2 work K1, P1 until the last 6 stitches. Then with the CC, stretch out the first few inches of your ruffle yarn and locate the top and bottom edge (with metallic thread).  Ruffle yarn is a mesh and to create a clean look for this project we will need to hide the raw edge.

  1. Fold about 1/2″ of the end of the mesh over on itself and line up the top, bottom and middle rows of the mesh.
  2. Insert the right needle into the first loop on the left needle as if to knit.
  3. Before wrapping your yarn as you would for a knit stitch, pierce both layers of the bottom row of the mesh with your right needle
  4. Wrap your yarn and then draw through the combined loops and complete the knit stitch as you normally would (5 stitches left to finish the round)
  5. For the next 5 stitches, you’ll complete the same actions as you did in steps 2-4, except you’ll be working across the folded edge of the mesh, using the strands/holes in the middle portion of the mesh to incorporate the end of the mesh into the knitted stitches.

Round 3 Continuing with CC using just the top 2 threads of the mesh knit all stitches.  DO NOT break yarn after finishing the round
Round 4 MC – Knit all stitches
Round 5 MC – *K 35 and PM* 5 times then K 35 (end of round and unique marker already in place)
Round 6 MC – K all sts except SSK after each marker and K2Tog before each marker.
Round 7 CC – Skipping at least 2 holes in the mesh to provide enough slack to reach this round, K all sts using the top 2 threads of the mesh.
Rounds 8-12 MC – K all Sts

Repeat rounds 6-12 until there are 48rounds and 126 stitches on your needles.

Round 49 CC – K all sts using the top 2 threads of the mesh. At the end of the round, leave about 1″ of mesh for finishing and cut CC yarn.
Round 50 Begin by hiding the raw edge of the CC yarn just as outlined in Round 2 except you will be starting with the top edge of the mesh and working to the bottom.  Be sure the raw edge is folded under since there won’t be any layers above to hide the raw edge.

Finish the round in K1, P1 ribbing with MC.

frillyskirt-insetRounds 51-54 MC K1, P1 ribbing
Round 55 MC YO, K2Tog repeating these 2 sts for the entire round
Bind off loosely.

Using the remainder of the CC, a belt or a pretty ribbon, weave in and out of the YO holes left at the top edge of the skirt to form a belt.

As always, I can’t wait to see your projects, so please leave comments, and post pictures.  And, don’t forget, You can sell this skirt as a finished object. See Begone, Personal-Use only patterns for details.

Written by Karlie

December 24th, 2012 at 10:12 am

Herlo’s blanket – Completed Project

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herlobabyblanketI finally got the blanket for Herlo’s son done.  What do you think? Click the picture to get a larger image.

It took a little longer than expected to finish because my schedule has been a bit busier than normal lately.

My hope is that I’ll get it in the mail today or tomorrow and by this weekend, there will be a little Fedorian snuggled under it.

The stitch pattern is simply linen stitch except it’s worked with two colors of yarn.

To start the blanket, I cast on 150 stitches with Color A (Chocolate Brown) and switched to Color B (Seafoam) for the first and second row.  Then back to the brown for rows 3 and 4.

The knitting in the image above is actually on it’s side.  The cast on and cast-off are the long edges, but I don’t suppose it makes much difference what direction you travel while knitting. If you’d like a better idea of what the work looks like as your knitting, the image to the left ought to do it for you.

Personally, I like longer runs because turning the work tends to break me out of the zone.  I suppose I’m spoiled by knitting in the round.

I simply knitted until the piece measured a rough square, or about a skein and a half.  The knitting then found it’s rectangle shape in the washer.  With every other stitch slipped, you shouldn’t get too hung up on what the shape it really is until the yarn finds it’s natural location.  You could block it back to a square, but for a baby blanket that’s going to be washed a lot, natural, unblocked is a good way to go.

UPDATE: 4/25/2012 You can sell this blanket as a finished object. See Begone, Personal-Use only patterns for details.

Written by Karlie

October 26th, 2010 at 1:05 pm

Color play with Linen Stitch

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Last year, I made a blanket for my nephew, Luke.  Well, I’m at it again, but this time I’m not sure who’ll get this blanket, but I’m making it anyway.

I’m using the same Seafoam (sorry it’s washed out, my camera is only so-so and the scanner didn’t quite grab the color either) and Brown yarns that I had left over from Luke’s but this time I’m doing a 2 color linen stitch.  Depending on how you look at it, it seems to zig-zag, or checker-board.  But no matter how I look at it, I’m loving the visual.  

I even like the back of linen stitch.  If you click the image above, you’ll see what I’m talking about.  The front is on the bottom and the back is at an angle at the top of the picture. 

So if you’d like to knit along with me, you’ll need…
Worsted weight yarn in two colors (Color A, Color B).  If you’re not sure about the amount you should buy, ask your local LYS Staff to help you out.

Needles – I’m knitting back and forth using US 11s on a 24 inch circular, but the gauge is 4.75 sts per inch or about 19 per 4 inches, so, as always, if you’re worried about the gauge, please choose needles that give you the size you’re looking for.

Using color A, Cast on 150 stitches.  I’ve been using a Crochet Cast-on because I like that it matches my bind off.

Row 1, with Color b, begin linen stitch for the Right side
Row 2 , with Color b, Linen stich for the wrong side.
Row 3, Color A Linen stitch for the Right side.
Row, Color A for the wrong side.

Carry your colors up the side to cut down on weaving in ends.

You might also want to consider adding a third color to the mix. Just switch colors every row.  Don’t worry about keeping track of which to use, the pattern will present itself – really, it only takes a moment or two to catch on to which yarn comes next. 

Also, If you take a moment to untangle and move your unused yarns out of your way when you’re switching colors you’ll avoid making a giant knot. 

The sample on the right was knitted using an el-cheapo pack of pearl cotton skeins I found in the embroidery section of the craft store. 

I was experimenting with color combinations by starting with a random length and then adding in a new color as they ran out.

If you click the image, you’ll get a high def image to examine.  If you look closely, you’ll see that I started at the bottom with dark blue, light blue, and orange.

Dark blue ran out first, and was replaced with dark green and then light blue was replaced with yellow.  My color selection technique was to randomly grab a color out of a bag.  I knew I could find complementary colors, but what I was really looking for was what “clashing” colors might look like. 

What I found was that, yes, some are more pleasing combination than others, but when mixed like they are, there’s noting that’s too outrageous.  In fact, I was really disappointed that my first 3 colors were blue, blue and orange.  It felt too much like team colors rather than anything fashionable, but the tonal colors with a bright looked pretty good together.  Not sure I’d make a sweater for the office with those, but as an accent piece it would be stunning. 

It now has me thinking about my stash of odd balls and yarns that make me (and my husband) wonder what I was thinking when I bought them.  Perhaps they could be mixed into a pleasing Linen stitch throw or other object. 

Linen stitch is also quite firm, and doesn’t curl, so I’m thinking of a cotton bath mat, to keep my good towels off the floor.  I’ll let you know when I cast on. 

~Karlie

Written by Karlie

October 4th, 2010 at 1:27 pm

Knitted version of the buttercup bag (Tutorial included)

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It’s not that I can’t sew… I’m actually not too bad if I put my mind to it. Instead, you could classify my problem as dinner-table-itis. Meaning if I can’t finish by dinner time or don’t have a really good reason, I probably shouldn’t haul out the sewing paraphernalia. Unfortunately, a pretty little handbag doesn’t fit into my schedule right now and it’s not a good reason to prevent us from dining at the kitchen table. C’est la vie.

However, a few minutes of knitting now and then, does fit into my schedule. Yes, it probably would have been faster to simply get out my sewing machine to make Made By Rae’s Buttercup bag, but I just can’t resist a knitting pattern challenge.

Here’s the results…
Knitted Buttercup Bag

The Recipe…
Ingredients for this bag -

  • Bernat Worsted. A one pound or so skein. (Will make more than a few bags)
  • Knit picks Options – Your favorite size (See notes on Gage below) needles on 24″ or longer cord for Magic Circle knitting or two circs, lots of DPNs, Or your favorite method.
  • 2 stitch markers – it’s helpful if they are different so you’ll know when the rounds begin
  • cable needle
  • stitch holder or scrap yarn
  • Optional – clip to make a key ring holder

Project Notes

  • This bag is knitted from the bottom up so it is seamless.
  • I used a magnetic snap to close this bag and the jeweled leaf ‘bling’ was chosen because I could sew it on to add stability to the knitting.
  • Guage and needle size is not important but I chose a tight knit because I didn’t want to line the bag.

Let’s get cookin’!
Cast on an even number of stitches as you would for your favorite toe up socks. More or less stitches to adjust the width of your bag. In this case I cast on a total of 48 stitches onto a single needle and transferred them to two DPNs by alternating needles as I transferred the stitches. It sounds confusing even though I’m the one who did it. Think of it this way… needle one gets the first stitch, needle 2 the second, needle 1 the third, needle 2 the fourth etc. Or again, your favorite method (cast on as to knit in the round and then sew up the bottom would work too).

Shaping
The bag is knit in the round and we’ll begin shaping the radius corners in the very first row.

So you understand my method for creating the radius, I used the GIMP to make some circles so I could see the shape in pixels.

Learning corners with the GIMP

As you’ll see in the example image above, that the second row up from the bottom is 3 pixels longer, per side, than the first row. So that means I need to increase 3 stitches to shape that portion of the bag. I’m also working with a flat shape, so increases will happen before and after each of the side two markers.

For the bag in the picture and after frogging several times, I settled on a 26 stitch radius.

So let’s get Knitting!
Round 1 – Place Marker *KFB 4 times K 16 (assuming casting on 48 stitches or 24 stitches per side) KFB 4 times*. Place Marker. Repeat between * to complete round 1.

For the next 25 rows You’ll continue making the number of KFB increases in this same manner as above, but with the numbers listed below. For example, Round 2 would be to KFB in the first 3 stitches after the marker. Knit to within 3 stitches of the second marker and KFB3 times.

If you’re using Magic Circle Knitting, as I did with this bag, when you reach a marker, take time to adjust your cord. I usually kept the bulk of my extra cording at the opposite marker and used just enough slack on the working side to get my needle started.

Round 2 – Increase 3
Round 3 – Increase 2
Round 4 – Increase 2
Round 5 – Increase 1
Round 6 – Increase 2
Round 7 – Increase 1
Round 8 – Increase 1
Round 9 – Increase 1
Round 10 – Increase 1
Round 11 – Increase 1
Round 12 – None – Yep, that’s right, there’s no need to increase in this row.
Round 13 – Increase 1
Round 14 – Increase 1
Round 15 – None
Round 16 – Increase 1
Round 17 – None
Round 18 – Increase 1
Round 19 – None
Round 20 – None
Round 21 – Increase 1
Round 22 – None
Round 23 – None
Round 24 – None
Round 25 – None
Round 26 – Increase 1

Now that the corners are done, you’ll be adding an increase round (make one before and after each marker just like we did for the corners) every few rows until you have 72 stitches on your needles. The more rows between your increase rounds the deeper your bag will be.

Pleats
I don’t know about you, but I’ve never seen directions for pleating in knitting so I had to devise my own technique. The pattern reads – K6 (Pleat 12) 5 times K6 – Repeat for side 2

Now how does one Pleat 12? Good question… Slip 6 stitches to a cable or Double Pointed needle and hold them at the back. Then 3 needle knit from your left hand needle and the cable needle at the same time. Stitch Diva has a good video tutorial on YouTube if you’d like to see how it’s done.

Seed Stitch band and Handle
The good news is there’s only one row that needs pleating so we’re already onto the top band. In this bag I Knit 9 rows of K1P1 seed stitch for the top band. To get an odd number of stitches so I’d have beautiful seed stitch as I went round and round, I replaced the first K stitch with a single K2Tog.

At row 10 I began the bind off round Leaving 3 live stitches on each side of your markers. So starting at the beginning of the round I would knit 3 stitches in pattern, then bind off until I had 3 live stitches before the marker. Do the same for the other side.

For the handle, begin back and forth knitting in the K1P1 pattern until your strap is as long as you’d like it to be. Mine is fairly short because I usually end up with my purse in my hand or around my forearm. Depending on how comfortable you are, you can leave the live stitches you left on the opposite side right on the cable of your circular needle or slip them to a stitch holder.

Knitted key holder for the Buttercup Bag

Attaching the strap
The first trick is getting the K1P1 pattern of the strap to match up with the live stitches when you’re ready to attach. We’re going to do a bit of 3 needle kni

tting again, so slip the stitches on to your Cable needle or a DPN. Take a look at what you’ve got on the needle and what you’ll be knitting next on the strap. To get the next row to match up, the pattern should look the same on both sides.

At this point you can do a 3 needle bind off in pattern, or you can continue seed stitch for another round or two past the connection point.

The second trick is making sure you’re binding off or continuing your knitting where you’d like it to be. So take a moment to determine if you’ll be knitting to the inside or the outside of the bag before you join.

On this bag I knit just a couple more rows of the seed stitch pattern and then decreased by 2 stitches. I continued as a 4 stitch icord to attach a little spring clip for my keys.

Now I should caution you that was a knitter for  less than 2 years when I wrote this post and this is one of my first tutorials. Please leave questions or comments below and I’ll do my best to clarify.

UPDATE: 4/25/2012 You can sell this bag as a finished object. See Begone, Personal-Use only patterns for details

Written by Karlie

December 11th, 2009 at 10:18 am

A blanket for Baby Luke

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Along with my time issues ahead of FUDcon, I’ve been struggling with a design for a blanket I promised I’d make for my soon to be nephew, Luke. It had been a problem because I wanted to be sure I had something to take with me to work on while I’m in sessons or have down time.

The other problem I’ve been having with the blanket is that I told my sister I’m already making it. While it’s true I’ve been working on it, I just haven’t told her how many times I’ve frogged the yarn back onto the ball and stared again.

I’ve been having a really hard time coming up with something that won’t be dull to knit or dull to look at without being too complicated. Complicated is more important now that I only have a few weeks to get the blanket done. But I think I finally have something… Or at least I’m going with it now that I don’t have any time to goof around with new patterns.

Let me show you a sample of what I’ve worked out…


For this example I’m using

  • Lion Cotton “Poppy” for Color “A”
  • Lion Cotton “White” for Color “B”
  • US size 8 DPN (I’m using a circular needle for the blanket)

The Technique
Pattern is worked over an even number of stitches and has a 4 row repeat.
Standard abbreviations used.

Cast on with Color A
Row 1 – RS – using Color B – *K1, WYIF Sl1 PW* repeat between * until the end.
Row 2 – RS – Without turning work, slide all stitches to the right end of the needle and K all stitches with color A.
Row 3 – WS – Turn work. Using B, *P1, WYIB Sl1 PW* repeat between * until the end
Row 4 – WS – Without turning work, slide all stitches to the right end of the needle and P all stitches with color A.

When I get the blanket done I’ll post pictures and give details about the yarn choices, needles and finished sizes.

~Karlie

Written by Karlie

December 3rd, 2009 at 10:39 am